Retinol is THE best skincare ingredient for all skin types – the multifunctioning superhero of home care products!
There are some important things to remember though, before you start using it, OR if you tried it and stopped.
Some background first…
Ageing
Ageing results in lines and wrinkles, thinning of the skin and collagen loss. Also, pigmentation, sunspots, and uneven skin tone – oh joy!
Then add enlarged pores, dehydration and dullness and you no longer want to look in the mirror!
RETINOIDS are derivatives of Vitamin A. They stimulate collagen production, increase cell turnover, exfoliate, improving the appearance of finer lines and wrinkles. They also reduce pigmentation by helping to manage melanin production.
The most tried and tested, effective anti-ageing skin care ingredient with a ton of clinical studies to prove their effectiveness. Can be used on ALL skin types.
Tretinoin is prescription only medical skincare and is great for acne and a powerful anti-ageing tool.
Retinols are weaker cosmeceuticals and can even be found in very low doses in over-the-counter skin care. There are different retinols that vary in strength.
Although the strengths and delivery systems of retinoids vary from high to low, they all have the same outcomes and are all converted to retinoic acid.
Now some Retinol Do’s
Retinol DO number 1:
- Start SLOW. This is best because there is usually a reactive phase when starting retinoids. You can experience red, flaky, itchy dry and sore skin.
- Use a low concentration first, such as Retinol 1 percent. You will still get some benefit as long as you’re using it consistently. Build up frequency of use slowly. I usually advise using it twice per week to start with to give your skin time to adjust. Leave it for 2 weeks, then increase to three times per week, then after 2-4 weeks increase to every night.
- The higher the dose, the more powerful the effect, so I’d then advise moving up to Tretinoin (prescription retinoid) at 0.025 percent and so on, as advised by your health care practitioner.
- 0.1 percent Tretinoin is reserved for severe acne sufferers and those with very deep lines and wrinkles.
- Sometimes higher strengths are not well tolerated. If so, stick to Retinol or the lowest strength tretinoin. Better to be consistent at a lower dose than sporadic at a high dose.
Retinol DO number 2:
- USE AT NIGHT ONLY. Retinoids are light sensitive, so sunlight can deactivate it and make the skin more sensitive, so use at night and make sure you wash your face and apply sunscreen in the morning.
Retinol DO number 3:
- Retinol can have a drying effect. You can moisturise afterwards if this occurs (or even before if your skin is very reactive).
Retinol DO number 4:
- Use a sunscreen. You need to wear a broad-spectrum sunblock (blocks UVA and UVB light) every day, all year around. I would advise this even if you’re not using retinol! It should be Zinc or Titanium oxide based, such as the range from Obagi Medical or Heliocare 360 – 2 of my absolute favourites.
Retinol DO number 5:
- Be consistent. Persevere even if you start with some peeling, redness, or itching. Again, try using moisturiser too and don’t use too much or rub it in too vigorously – smooth it on and let it absorb. A little every day is ideal and is better for cell stimulation.
Retinol DO number 6:
- Be Patient. Remember, start slow and bear in mind that with skincare and trying to improve the health of your skin, there is little or no instant gratification!
- Skin cycles are typically 6 weeks. It could take 2-3 cycles to really get results. So, wait 12-16 weeks and hang in there. If you’re having any issues, discuss with your practitioner.
Retinol DO number 7:
- Use it around the eyes. You have lines and wrinkles here too! Just don’t get too close – stay away from the eye and lashes – keep it up to the orbital rim (bony eye socket) only and away from your tattooed or microbladed eyebrows!
Now some Retinol Don’ts
OK here goes…
Retinol DON’T number 1:
- Do not use it in the morning. See above.
Retinol DON’T number 2:
- Do not use with Vitamin C. This is because the different PH requirements of the two ingredients usually end up rendering each other ineffective. Use Retinol at night and Vitamin C in the morning.
Retinol DON’T number 3:
- Do not use if pregnant or breastfeeding.
Retinol DON’T number 4:
- Do not use whilst having in clinic treatments, such as, peels, microneedling, radiofrequency or laser. Stop your retinoid 3-7 days before and restart 3-7 days after you had your treatment. Check with your practitioner for exact guidance.
Retinol DON’T number 5:
- Do not use too much. Read the directions and be cautious. Don’t rub it in too much. Smooth it on evenly and let it absorb.
Retinol DON’T number 6:
- Don’t give up! Every time you stop using it you’ll have to go through that adjustment phase again. If you’re reacting, then drop down a level to 3 times a week, or twice a week, let your skin recover a little bit, then increase again. Or use it with moisturiser, but never stop it. If you’re not sure what to do, speak to your practitioner.
If you just can’t tolerate retinoids every night, then consider reducing the product strength next time you purchase. First try using less (but evenly spread). If still no good, then you can use moisturiser or less often until you need to replenish. Don’t waste it!
Well folks, I hope that helped.
