What is Collagen? Collagen is a protein found throughout the body. It has an important role in just about every tissue type and in many variations. It’s an essential element of skin, hair, and nails, as well as organs, arteries and muscles. It’s crucial in understanding how we age. Collagen declines rapidly from our early 20’s.

How is Collagen made?
Collagen is made using the amino acids Glycine and Proline. Also Vitamin C, Zinc and Copper.
How are proteins used in our bodies?
Protein molecules are large. When you eat it, your body breaks it down into amino acids, which are then transported wherever they are needed in your body.

Once they arrive at their target area, the amino acids are reconstructed into the required proteins.

How do cells make collagen?
Cells inside the dermis are called fibroblasts, which build collagen and elastin. Collagen and elastin control the structure and thickness of your skin.

As we age, fibroblasts produce less and less collagen.

Taking collagen supplements then, to stimulate collagen production on a cellular level doesn’t make sense physiologically, but they still may be beneficial because they contain Glycine and Proline, vitamin c, zinc and copper, which help keep those collagen building blocks present in the body.

What are the alternatives to collagen supplements?
Collagen supplements contain broken down collagen. These are mostly derived from animals (bovine or marine). They also contain vitamin c, zinc, and copper.

If you don’t want to take a supplement then make sure your diet contains bone broth (collagen), citrus fruits (vitamin c), leafy vegetables/seeds/some beans/meats (copper and zinc).

What else stimulates collagen production?
Topical active ingredients: retinoids (Retinol, Retin-A, Tretinoin), vitamin c and possibly growth factors.

Controlled injury/trauma to the skins surface: Microneedling, radiofrequency Microneedling, chemical peels and laser.

This only works if done regularly and consistently.

Can I take collagen supplements if I am vegan/vegetarian?
Yes, but vegan or vegetarian collagen supplements are the least effective.

What evidence is there that collagen supplements work?
Some studies have shown that collagen supplements help hydration, joint pain, fine lines and wrinkles and hair and nail growth.

However, these studies are very small and funded by people who are invested in positive outcomes, so it’s best to view them with a healthy dose of scepticism.

Are there any risks with collagen supplements?
No major risks but taking too much protein can put a strain on your kidneys, so watch your total intake.

There not really tested for safety or medically approved as far as I know, so do your research and don’t just buy the cheapest brand.

Do I recommend collagen supplements?
Skincare is an important part of my lifestyle.

Taking a collagen supplement means a get a good source of glycine and proline in my diet, but I don’t take them because I think they will keep me young (that ship has sailed!), but I know they won’t do me any harm and I’m getting some essential amino acids.

I do feel they make my hair and nails grow faster and my skin looks healthy, so why not? For me the benefits outweigh any risks.

What else can I do to protect or stimulate collagen?
Sun protection is essential. UVA rays accelerate collagen breakdown in the body.
Smoking does the same.

Sun tanned skin can look beautiful, but your skin pays the price in the long run! Accumulated damage from sun exposure lives inside the memory of skin cells that control pigmentation (melanocytes). Of course, genetics play a part in this too.

What are the long-term problems caused by sun exposure?
Acceleration of skin ageing: Loss of collagen, breakdown of the dermis (elastin), hyperpigmentation and even skin cancer.

The solution, of course, is to be mindful of the sun whatever your age.

What are the 2 things that older people with good skin have in common?
They avoided sun exposure.

They live where the climate is milder – less sun.
They adopt a sun protective lifestyle including applying sunscreen, sunglasses and wearing a hat.

Used active ingredients in their skincare.
This might include retinoids, Vitamin C, Hyaluronic Acid, Niacinamide, Peptides and AHA/BHA’s such as Salicylic acid or glycolic acid.

Don’t we need sun exposure to get Vitamin D though?
Yes, we do, but surprisingly not that much exposure time is needed. Around 15 minutes 2-3 times per week is enough, and it doesn’t have to be on your face.

What are the cosmetic changes of ageing skin?
Dehydration, volume loss, dullness, and open pores.

What are the structural changes of ageing skin?
Thinning of the dermis, pigmentation or discolouration, loss of elasticity and lack of firmness.

What treatments are available to reverse skin ageing?
The best are anti-ageing treatments that create a controlled “injury/trauma” to the skin, stimulating collagen.

Examples include:

• Radiofrequency Microneedling (such as Secret RF)
• Microneedling (such as Wow Fusion)
• Chemical Peels or Resurfacing treatment (such as Obagi Blue Peel Radiance and pH Formula Advanced Resurfacing Treatments (ART).
• Good skin care is still essential if you want to achieve hydrated, firm, clean, smooth skin (Obagi Medical Skincare and pH Formula Skincare are my favourites, and it must be Heliocare for sunscreen).
• Collagen supplements (taken orally in capsule, powder or liquid form).
• Consistency is key, with your daily skincare and sunscreen (containing good quality active ingredients), as well as the use of external clinic treatments.